Pillar Roses
Study the
surroundings
A pillar rose should always
look as if it belonged to its surroundings. A corner formed by close-cut evergreen trees forms an
excellent background, and supplies a much needed shelter to the rose in its earlier growth. The pillar
rose must stand well away from the evergreen trees, for shelter does not of necessity mean shade, and the roots
must never be allowed to intermingle.
A hole must be dug in the
same way as described in the Planting
Roses section and when in position the rose tree must be secured firmly to a stick. You need not
begin with an iron stake ten feet high, though, if all goes well, that is what it will ultimately require. A
strong bamboo cane of a good thickness will answer every purpose for the first three or four years, and looks
less unsightly.
How to prune pillar
roses
In pruning pillar roses be
sure to keep several of the shoots quite short, even when the tree has grown to its full height, as it is only
in this way that flowers can be produced all the way down.
Nothing looks worse than six
feet of bare stem and only a crown of flowers at the top. Each
shoot must be well tied in, or the wind is very liable to catch them. Tarred twine is the best material, as it lasts longer than bass or
ordinary string. It is advisable to walk round the tree
several times while training it up, or a one-sided effect will be obtained.
Suitable pillar
roses:
Zephirine Drouhin
Aloha
Don
Juan
Van
Fleet
Wichurana Rambler
Dublin Bay
Crimson Pillar
Royal Gold
Unsuitable
sorts:
Some roses that gardeners try as pillars are not suited in that position, and a beginning
should not be made with them.
Such are Perle des Jardins, Marechal Niel, Fortune’s Yellow, Niphetos,
and others. These require at least shelter of a wall, and in many
cases are best under glass. It is often the wrong
choice rather than wrong cultivation which makes for failure, and so discourages the gardener.
|